Understanding Spiny Oyster and Coral in Jewelry

Spiny Oyster vs. Coral: What’s the Difference?

At Legendary Patania Jewelry, we’re often asked about the difference between spiny oyster and coral. Two vibrant materials that add rich color to jewelry, but do have many differences. Here’s a little insight to help you understand and appreciate each one.

What is Spiny Oyster?

Spiny oyster is not actually an oyster but a type of shell that naturally grows large, thorny spines, hence its name. In jewelry, it’s usually the spines that are shaped into beads or small cabochons, which is why you’ll often see spiny oyster used for smaller accent pieces; however, the whole shell can be used for larger statement pieces as well.

Most spiny oyster comes from the Sea of Cortez off the coast of Mexico and Baja California. Its color can range from pale orange and pink to deep red and even rich purple. Interestingly, the depth at which the shell grows affects its hue. Shells found deeper underwater tend to be darker, making those vivid purples and dark reds rarer and more valuable. Another unique trait is the natural striations within the shell, which add beautiful texture and character to each piece.

Notice the beautiful striations in each piece of spiny oyster; this is usually the first tell-tale sign of spiny oyster and is visible in all pieces.

What is Coral?

Coral, on the other hand, is the skeleton of the coral organism itself. Unlike spiny oyster, coral doesn’t have striations but can show subtle variations in shade within a single piece, depending on its quality. Coral colors range from soft white to angel skin pink to deep, intense red-orange tones. Generally, the richer the color, the higher the quality; however, the creamy, light pinks have long been prized as well.

Over the past few decades, coral has become a more delicate topic in the jewelry world, as harvesting it has a significant impact on ocean ecosystems. Coral grows very slowly, and changes in ocean conditions have led to widespread coral bleaching.

Out of respect for these challenges, we at Patania no longer purchase new coral. All the coral you see in our designs comes from a reserve acquired by Frank Patania Sr. in the 1950s, sourced from the renowned coral center of Torre del Greco, Italy. Once our vintage stock is gone, we won’t be adding more.

In coral, there are no striations, but there are slight, stunning changes in color and hue.

Other Similar Materials:

• Bamboo coral, a faster-growing coral that’s typically dyed (though we chose to discontinue using it as of 2023).

• Red gemstones, including red aventurine, certain types of agate and jasper, and even carnelian.

• Modern materials, such as Rosarita (a brilliant red glass byproduct from old gold mining processes), art clay, and high-quality resins, can provide vibrant colors with a minimal environmental footprint.

How to Know What You Have

If you’re unsure whether your piece is genuine coral, spiny oyster, or a look-alike, it’s always wise to ask an expert or trusted jeweler. Sadly, some sellers market dyed substitutes at the same price as true coral or spiny oyster so we strongly suggest buying from reputable sources to ensure you get what you’re paying for.

Final Thoughts

In the end, both spiny oyster and coral, and their alternatives, bring warmth, character, and a splash of color to your jewelry collection. We believe the choice to wear them should come with understanding and confidence, so you can treasure each piece for years to come.